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Waterlox for Woodworking Finishing Guide
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Applying Your Finish
Now for the fun part…applying your finish. As we said, there are many right ways and few wrong ways to apply Waterlox Tung Oil Finishes. We will concentrate on the two most popular (and easiest) methods for woodworkers-- brushing and wiping on Waterlox. Either way, we recommend applying Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish as your first coat, to penetrate and seal the wood and then continue to apply as many coats as you wish until you reach a desired look, either with more coats of Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish; or you can use Satin Finish or High Gloss Finish over the Sealer/Finish to achieve the right look for your project.
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Tip: Before applying finish, wipe down the wood with a thin coat of mineral spirits (making sure that you have adequate ventilation)… it will give you a “preview” of what your finished project will look like, and give you a chance to correct any imperfections to ensure that you will be happy with the finish. |
We recommend using a total of 3-4 coats of Waterlox Original Finish(s), depending on the type of wood (softer woods like pine fir and poplar require at least 4 coats), and the method (wiping on a finish tends to be thinner than a brushed on, so more coats are generally required). All coats should applied at 125 square feet per quart per coat.
We normally suggest 12-24 hours between coats and 3-5 days before heavy usage. The 3 things that matter in dry/cure times are temperature, ventilation and humidity levels...of these 3, ventilation is the most important...the bottom line is, the longer you wait, the better off you are.
Be sure the room that you will be finishing your piece is well-ventilated but not drafty. If there are heat and air- conditioning vents in the room, be sure to close off the ducts, and be sure to vacuum dust created by sanding before you begin. For best results, room temperature should to be above 60°F.
Use a tack cloth or a cloth dampened with paint thinner to wipe the surface you are going to varnish. Tack cloth is a specially-prepared cloth that removes dust and grease.
Brushing Method Brushing is our preferred method of applying Waterlox Original Finishes. It is the easiest and quickest way to get a good “film build” on your project, and Waterlox’s “self-leveling” attributes ensure that any brush marks will disappear. We recommend a good quality natural/China bristle brush. 2-1/2" size is generally recommended. You may wish to use a smaller brush when applying the finish in tight corners, around rounded edges and decorations. Foam brushes are not recommended, as they have a tendency to leave air bubbles on the surface.
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Dip the brush bristles about a third of the way into the finish. To remove excess finish, gently tap the brush against the inside of the can. Do not slap or drag the brush - this motion can cause air bubbles.
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Begin with long even strokes across the grain. Let only the tip of the brush touch the surface, overlapping each brush stroke slightly. Do only enough brushstrokes to completely cover the surface. (Too much pressure on the brush as you are applying the finish will not only cause air bubbles, but will also make the finish uneven. To remove air bubbles, brush along the grain with more finish until they disappear.)
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Using the same brush, but without dipping it in the finish again, brush along the grain of the wood. Begin at one edge and in one continuous movement, carry the brush to the opposite edge. Overlap the strokes slightly until the whole surface is done.
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To finish intricate parts, use light coats to prevent running and a smaller brush or rag to apply the finish.
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Sanding between coats of Waterlox Tung Oil products is not necessary for adhesion purposes. For aesthetic reasons, you can lightly sand the completely dried coats of finish (we have found that the best time to do this is before the final coat). If there is any dirt or lint in the coats, sanding will take them out. Steel wool is an alternative to sandpaper and is easier to use on rounded objects such as table legs and ornamentation.
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Once you've applied the final coat, look for any dust or particles that may have settled on the finished surface. To remove them, while the finish is still wet, dip a small artist's brush into the container of finish you are using and wipe it off completely. With the brush's tip, touch the piece of dust. Do not push it into the finish. The dust should stick to the tip of the brush and lift away without leaving a mark.
Hand-Rubbed Wiping Method Hand rubbing Waterlox Sealer/Finish with cheesecloth is very efficient and produces beautiful results. It creates an even coat without runs, drips, or brushes to clean. We do not recommend wiping on our Satin Finish, as this method may cause streaks.
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With a teaspoon of Waterlox applied to cheesecloth, begin wiping into corners, joints and decorative work. This will reduce the excess oil in the cloth pad and allow it to even out oil in the corners and decorative areas.
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Add oil to cheese cloth as necessary to finish wiping an even coat on top of project.
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Rub surface with the palm of the hand or two fingers (or cheesecloth and gloves). Wiping with the grain, keep hand constantly in motion, so there are no smudges or fingerprints. The wood surface should feel slick, but not wet after rubbing. It will become sticky within five (5) minutes after being applied and should not be rubbed any longer. Each side of a dresser or cabinet, for example, should be wiped down with Waterlox and then hand- rubbed before going on to the next section.
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A little excess Waterlox during the hand rubbing will allow the wood to absorb a maximum amount; thus, an even coat is being applied.
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Continue application of Waterlox with cheesecloth followed by hand-rubbing to level out wet areas. Rub oil into wood over entire project.
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Tip: Generally, wiping on Waterlox will result in a thinner film per coat than brushing it on; 5 or 6 rubbed on coats may be needed for the equivalent film thickness of 3 brushed-on coats. |
Spraying All spraying equipment is different, however most professional equipment will spray our Waterlox Sealer/Finish with no reduction. Apply about 3 mils wet, with good drying conditions, about 12 hours later you can apply a second coat. You’ll know when to re-apply by lightly sanding a small area with 220 grit papers, if it powders its ready to go, if it gums, wait overnight.
For tip selection, use the tip that your equipment’s manufacturer suggests for low viscosity non pigmented finishes.
If you’re spraying our VOC compliant Satin, (TB 6035), you may want to reduce about 10-20% with mineral spirits. If you’re using our TB 6044 Satin, thin with 10-15% naptha . Remember, hard woods – 3 coats, softer woods like pine or fir 4 coats.
Spraying does not change the durability of our coating as long as you apply it with the same spread rate as if putting it down with a brush or a lambswool applicator – 125 sq. ft per quart/coat.
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